Christchurch, New Zealand: When a city rises

Recently I came across another travel blog, of someone that had travelled to New Zealand. On an entry about Christchurch, they wrote “Christchurch is quite a sad city, there isn’t much to do there!”

In some ways, yes I can see her point on this. Earthquake damage isn’t pretty, and there are a number of things closed down, but there are also many things opening or reopening. So I thought I’d use this blog entry to write about what there is to do in Christchurch.

The title of this blog is a bit of a play on words from the DVD when a city falls. I did see someone else write it on a post about the DVD “I can’t wait for the sequel: when a city rises” – so I cannot take any credit for this title at all.  

When I arrived in Christchurch in January 2012, the city did seem a wee bit sad; almost like the heart of it had been ripped out. Many roads and streets were closed, and there was a lot of visible damage. Walking around the cordon of the CBD early on after the earthquakes, the whole place felt like a ghost town. So many buildings  just shut down, with no life in them.

However, Christchurch is slowly returning. I have watched over a number of months, many buildings being torn down only to be left with empty sections. Watching some buildings coming down was quite a sight to see; buildings which look so strong and unshakable, were being torn into by a crane, with pieces of steel and rubble falling to the ground like pieces of paper. It really made me think of just how temporary this world really is.

I have written about Christchurch several times in this blog; mainly as I do live here, and perhaps that may be the difference between a traveller to Christchurch and someone that is new to the city, but living here. I have had time to sit and watch Christchurch grow again.

However, if you are planning on coming to New Zealand, do not just skip through Christchurch: take some time to really see it, and get to know it. There is an amazing sense of community here, and so many great things to do.

Here is what I would suggest for a visit:

• Restart Mall, on Cashel Street. This area boasts lots of cheap and nearby parking ($4 for all day parking), as well as free wifi throughout the streets – formally the site of the main city mall, where some people lost their lives in the earthquake. This area has been reopened since October 2011, and is ever evolving. It has a really cool vibe to it, with a number of buskers often playing at the side of the street. Shops are housed in colourful shipping containers, there is a small market area where you can buy a number of New Zealand souvenirs, many different places to eat and drink (the Souvlaki is amazing!)  as well as the museum Quake City

• Gap Filler tour – there are a number of a vacant spaces throughout the city, which have been filled with transitional projects; some which are extremely creative. They are created by and for the community (and those visiting the city to enjoy)

• Pay a visit to New Regent Street – This is one of Christchurch’ most historic sites, which runs off Gloucester Street. It became part of the historic tram loop in 1955. The shops are pastel coloured and have a Spanish architectural feel to them. Badly damaged in the earthquakes, this street was reopened in April 2013 it now has a number of shops ranging from bars, cafes, a bead shop, Mrs Higgins Cookies (AMAZING!). It is an ever developing street, and well worth a look.

• Immerse yourself in New Zealand culture by going along to a rugby game at the new AMI stadium in Addington (Jack Hinton Drive). Matches run between March and July for the Super League (Crusaders), and Canterbury between August and October. Many of the players in the crusaders play for the national team (The All Blacks), who won the recent rugby world cup (so they are pretty good). The stadium is a lot smaller, but the atmosphere is fantastic. Even if you don’t support one any of the teams, the games are really good. Afterwards head into Addington, which is a new up and coming area, including many new bars and restaurants such as the pedal pusher (bar stools made out of bike seats), Cargo bar (a bar in a shipping container), and the newer bar Morrell & Co.

• Get involved in a bit of hiking action. New Zealanders are very into their outdoors activities and hiking (or tramping as its known as here) is something people regularly do here. Some good spots to go for a good walk around Christchurch are: The Port Hills (which includes the crater rim walk – 16km) and Godly Head near Taylors Mistake (Sumner way) – 20km. If you aren’t feeling fit enough to climb the port hills, you can catch a ride on the Gondola to the top and walk from there. Quail Island is also a really cool place to visit, you can catch a ferry from Lyttelton – there are a few tracks that you can walk here. Stunning views and a great place for a picnic in the sunshine (or hunting for Easter eggs)

• Visit the many green spaces that Christchurch has to offer – Christchurch is known as the garden city, and has beautiful places to wander around, or enjoy a picnic. The Botanic gardens in the city is worth a wonder around, you can have a guided tour (for a cost), or go on food, stop for a coffee or bring your own picnic. The nearby Hagley Park is huge and definitely worth a walk or a cycle around. The information centre (iSite) is situated at the entrance of the botanic gardens in a little portacom, next to the Canterbury Museum (which is also worth a visit).

• (And finally) Ski or Snowboard at one of Canterbury’s’ many ski fields – it is winter here, which is why I thought I’d add this. Ski fields are open early June – Mid October. There are a number very close to Christchurch – Porters’ is an hour away and Mount Hutt is 1.5 hours away. Getting to the mountain can be pretty cheap for travellers – either hitch a ride with someone advertising on Snow Pool (www.snowpool.org) where you can get up for as little as $20 (fuel charge), or sign up to a group on meetup.com where the group ‘Canterbury adventures’ have many members going up (you will probably pay for fuel!) Hire your board/skis at $25 from Victoria Ski and Sport on Victoria Street, Christchurch (cheapest I have found in the city) and head up for a great day in the snow. Most winter days we have blue skies and sunshine, so the conditions are normally pretty good.